Winterizing has as many recipes as chicken soup. I have seen the rose gardens of the best exhibitors in the Pacific Northwest, and when it comes to protecting their plants in the winter, you will find there are three recipes for every four serious rose growers. These are guidelines that almost everyone adapts to in some form or another.
Winterizing has as many recipes as chicken soup. I have seen the rose gardens of the best exhibitors in the Pacific Northwest, and when it comes to protecting their plants in the winter, you will find there are three recipes for every four serious rose growers. These are guidelines that almost everyone adapts to in some form or another.
WHAT I RECOMMEND
In the Northwest, winterizing the rose plants means showing a healthy respect for what freeze damage can do to a rose bush, especially if you're protecting a bush like French Lace. This is one of the most beautiful floribundas I know, but it has been known to freeze in the shade of a sunflower.
On the other hand, if you are growing species roses, such as Rosa rugosa, Rosa multiflora, or even Harison's Yellow, you'll not waste your time placing a mound of protective bark dust, peat moss, compost, straw, mushroom compost, styrofoam, or cow manure or any other winter protection "stuff" on these exceptionally hardy roses.
For winter protection of hybrid teas, floribundas, etc I recommend some form of winter protection. I have always used bark dust; about enough to bury the crown about twelve inches. This protects about 90% of my bushes. I lost bushes every year to freeze damage prior to deciding some form of protection was necessary in the Northwest environment. Some of my colleagues do not winterize at all. In some cases, it is due to their location.
In the spring, I use the barkdust I winterized with as a mulch around the bushes and on pathways. I also use barkdust as a barrier to weeds, to help beautify the yard, and to keep water from evaporating.
The downside to barkdust is that it has no nutrients.
USING A DORMANT SPRAY
Absolutely, with apologies to those who prefer organic means of control. Insect eggs and fungus spores are in your yard by the billions and billions. After pruning a respectful 6, 12, 16, 20, or 24 inches, take all prunings and clippings and especially the leaves to a county disposal as a way of maximizing the effect of, and minimizing the use of an ovicide\ fungicide combination. Saturating the ground area around the bush, and of course, the bush itself is an effective use of dormant spray. Dormant sprays also come in many recipes, and I make no special recommendations. Lime-sulfur, volck oil, and copper sulphates in some form are the most popular.
I dormant spray every year, and I have a tolerable amount of disease, and almost no insects, comparatively speaking. If I did not dormant spray, there would be many more unwanted pests to deal with in the springtime.
HOW MANY CANES TO LEAVE FOR NEXT YEAR?
Four healthy ones! If you were asking a Consulting Rosarian as to "what does a plant need to have to make it a #1 rose", part of his/her answer would be three to four good canes. This is a fairly standard guideline recognized by most rose growing enthusiasts. Another rule of thumb with respect to cutting height is to "cut 'em low" for show, "cut 'em high" if you want more bloom. Cutting out all the spindly growth and excessive canes aerates the bush as is often recommended. Regardless of your decision with respects to cutting height, the bush knows more about growing itself than we do. (Lou's note: It really does depend on what you want -- if you want early blooms and lots of them, don't cut them back more than waist high; if you plan to exhibit, you'll want fewer roses, later. You'll cut them back more in the fall and again in February/March.)
WHEN SHOULD ROSES BE PRUNED BACK?
After the first frost is a good time to start thinking about it. You should feel fairly comfortable about your guess; the fact that the leaves are falling all about you is a sign for some that it's time to start Others wait till late spring, and both groups have their followers. When you see their gardens in June, you will not be able to separate the early pruners from the late pruners.
(Lou's note: Here's where Larry & I disagree - whoever gets to it first gets his/her way is how we resolve it. I feel it's best to trim just enough to keep the roses from blowing in the wind too much - our roses are in an open area and really get the wind; yours may not. Definitely cut out any dead/sick canes, and any that would rub against any others in the wind. Larry likes to cut them shorter than I like, but the roses do grow back. Some years it doesn't matter - everyone in this area ended up with stubs when they pruned last February. By the way, in February you'll do it all over again. That's when the 4 or 5 good canes becomes a guideline - of course, whether you're growing for bloom or show is still an issue.)
HOW TO GET MORE INFORMATION
Join a local Rose Society! You don't have to attend meetings to get your full benefit from the $15 or so/year membership fee per household. The newsletter is easily worth the membership fee. Consulting Rosarians will come to your home and show you how to prune, or let you know about a local public garden pruning that has been scheduled and you can learn how by doing!! Local societies also have lots of good programs on general rose culture. We all learn from them. To find a local society near you, find your state listing on the ARS District List and then click on the District Director's name. A list of societies will be presented to you.
