Spraying the Roses
Spraying Roses
By Robert B. Martin, Jr.
The practice of spraying one's roses is a delicate subject to address in these times of environmental activism But the fact of the matter is that spraying is often essential for the control of insects and mites and for the prevention of diseases that attack roses. As a consequence, most devoted rosarians accept the need to spray their roses. Others choose to avoid spraying their roses for various reasons; and indeed there are many roses that perform adequately with a minimum of spraying. Still others practice the discipline of IPM ("integrated pest management") which minimizes spraying but accepts the necessity of spraying roses from time to time as appropriate. The environmental questions are important to all who love roses which are without question the most beautiful flowers in our environment. But we do not seek in this section to debate these issues but rather to set forth the technical details on spraying for those who are interested.
Selecting a Sprayer
There are four types of sprayers: (1) Compression; (2) Hose end; (3) Electric; and (4) Trigger. The key to the purchase of a sprayer is to buy a sprayer adequate to the task. Constant refills of a sprayer costs time and effort and discourages the rosarian from practicing a proper spray program. In addition excess spray material presents a problem of disposal which is an environmental concern with which we can all agree.
To determine the size of the sprayer that you need a good rule of thumb is that one gallon of spray material will, on average, service 24 full-size leafed-out hybrid tea, grandiflora or floribunda roses. Miniatures count as 1/3 to 1/2 a full-size rose depending on size. Climbers count as two roses. Using these ratios, count the equivalent number of full size roses and divide by 24. This will indicate the minimum size of the sprayer you should select in order to service your rose garden with a minimum of effort. If you plan to add more roses in the future you should take this into consideration as well; err, if necessary, on the side of having a larger sprayer than may be immediately necessary.
It should also be noted that misting of buds and blooms for minor infestations of thrips and aphids can be accomplished with a small sprayer. It is therefore useful to have a full-size sprayer and a smaller one for such purposes.
Compression Sprayers
Compression sprayers are sprayers which are manually pumped up to provide air pressure for the delivery of the spray material. Such sprayers can deliver a great deal of spray material at a relatively even pace and the pumping generally requires much less effort than trigger sprayers (described below).
For larger gardens the constant pumping can prove tiring. Further, the pumping mechanism tends to leak as time goes by requiring more effort to pump up the sprayer.
Compression sprayers come in many sizes. Water is surprisingly heavy and the larger the sprayer, the heavier it becomes. For these reasons compression sprayers are practicable at a maximum capacity of 3-4 gallons. They are available with carrying straps or as a backpack. The backpack sprayers typically have a piston pump and have a larger capacity.
Compression sprayers are available in metal or plastic. Metal sprayers tend to become dented and corroded and seldom last whatever their construction. It is therefore better to buy a strong plastic sprayer which will last longer and is also lighter.
In selecting a compression sprayer, preference should be given to one with a wide mouth to permit ease of filling. The nozzle should be of brass and the end easily unscrewed to permit removal of obstructions which will occur no matter how careful you may be. It is useful to bend a paper clip around the strap which can be used to poke through the unscrewed nozzle to remove obstructions when they occur.
The most convenient size for compression sprayers is one of 2-3 gallons. A 1/2 gallon poly sprayer is very useful for spot applications.
Hose-End Sprayers
Hose end sprayers attach to the end of the garden hose and have a small jar with a dial mechanism to regulate the amount of spray material per gallon. Some can actually be screwed directly onto bottles of chemicals for delivery. All are relatively inexpensive.
Hose-end sprayers deliver a lot of spray with a minimum of effort. But the measuring apparatus is crude and permits wide variation in delivery of chemicals. A further disadvantage of a hose end sprayer is that it is difficult if not impossible to spray the underside of the leaves without spraying the solution all over your body. Users of such sprayers should wear a mask and pay careful attention to protection from overspray.
Electric Sprayers
For larger gardens, and for those who wish to minimize the time and effort of spraying without sacrifice of precise control, the sprayer of choice is an electrically powered sprayer. The disadvantage here is principally one of cost as such sprayers are easily the most expensive by far.
A very popular model among large scale rosarians is the Atomist Airblast Model 1026A. It is relatively small, holding only 1.5 gallons however is easily refillable or it can be hooked up by a hose to a larger holding tank. The Atomist is a true "mister" which atomizes the spray particles and provides excellent coverage of both the tops and bottoms of the foliage. It is expensive. On the other hand users report it to be extremely hardy and reliable, outlasting by several times a typical compression sprayer of the same size.
An Atomist-type sprayer raises legitimate concern about its small capacity and the necessity of constant remixing to spray a large garden. It should also be noted that it creates very small size particles which are easy to inhale, thus creating the potential of more danger to its user.
An alternative is an electrical sprayer which has a capacity of about 12 gallons and comes on large wheels with an attached hose of perhaps 15 feet in length. Such sprayers are typically powered by a 12-volt rechargeable battery and produce a consistent spray pattern comparable to a new compression sprayer.
Trigger Sprayers
At the other extreme from the electric sprayer is the trigger sprayer. A trigger sprayer is like a plastic Windex bottle with a plastic trigger handle. They are of very small capacity and tiring to use on all but the smallest jobs. They are, however, quite inexpensive and can be useful in the case of very small rose gardens or for misting of a small number of blooms. Trigger sprayers are widely available as unmarked plastic containers; it is important that a label be applied which indicates its use so that it won't be mixed up with other household chemicals.
HOW TO SPRAY
Consider Your Immediate Environment
The "environment" referred to here is the condition found "right now" in your garden. Do not plan to spray if it is very windy as you cannot control coverage and will wind up spraying everything in sight, including yourself. Do not plan to spray when it is too hot but do plan to allow enough daylight after spraying to permit drying. Water your roses first to deter spray burn. Do not spray when other wildlife are active, such as bees, butterflies, birds, cats, dogs and children. The best time to spray is early morning when it is still and the rest of the world is still sleeping or at coffee.
Dress for Success
The toxicity of garden chemicals is generally minimal, however it should be remembered that sprays are intended to be toxic to rose pests and rose disease and even minimally toxic sprays can be harmful to the rosarian. Tank tops, shorts and sandals are poor fashion for spraying. Wear a long sleeve shirt and long denim pants. Wear boots or other protective footwear. And always wear eye protection. Consider wearing a mask if you're going to do a lot of spraying; but don't let the fact that you're wearing a mask permit you to become sloppy. Finally, wear good rubber gloves.
Follow Directions
Select the chemicals you plan to spray. Then learn the exact application required and use it. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find that proper application for roses amid the governmental warnings and other fine print on the label or accompanying pamphlet which you will have lost. Use the Chemical Guide set forth below. It is a good idea to post a copy in your garage or garden shed for convenient reference. And once you've determined the recommended application amount ĦE use it. More is not better nor is less necessarily safer and more environmentally correct. Lots of research has gone into the manufacturer's recommendation. Also, don't guess at the right amount; invest in a set of measuring spoons and cups and use them to measure precisely.
Stick It to the Foliage
A spreader-sticker is simply a soap like product which breaks the water tension and permits spreading and adhesion of the spray material on and to the foliage. Commercial products are available in the nursery but they are typically expensive. A good alternative is Ivory dishwashing liquid (or a similar inexpensive dishwashing liquid). Add about a Tablespoon per gallon. Another alternative when using a systemic insecticide is insecticidal soap which will also add some contact killing power to the mix.
Use Good Water
Most chemicals are more effective in slightly acidic water. In areas where water is typically alkaline you should acidify the water with about a Tablespoon or two of white vinegar per gallon. Use clean water; recycling is not good for this purpose. Some good spreader-stickers have properties which buffer the water to the proper pH.
Keep Your Nozzle Clean
The best nozzle for sprayers is made of brass but any nozzle will become clogged from time to time no matter how careful you are. Reduce the risk of clogging by mixing ingredients carefully in clean water. Powders and emulsifiable concentrates ("EC") are best pre-mixed in a jar of warm water. When your sprayer is not in use keep the top loosely on so that foreign material will not fall into the tank. Be prepared for clogs by not overtightening the nozzle thus permitting you to screw it off by hand. Use a clean metal object to poke the obstruction out of the nozzle, not back into the tank where it will inevitably surface again. Consider wrapping a paper clip around the strap for this purpose so you don't have to wander all over the yard and garage looking for a pin. Finally, do not point the wand at your face when you are cleaning the nozzle. Poke the obstruction out of the nozzle and if you want to be sure the wand is clear spray some material on the ground around a rose to flush the system before reattaching the nozzle.
Attack Downwind
Even though you have selected a windless time to spray the wind will begin to blow as soon as you've filled up the tank. Take note of its direction. Spray downwind away from your body so that the overspray cloud floats away from you.
Get Good Coverage
Take your time in spraying to do it right and you won't have to do it as often. Spray in two passes. On the first pass turn your nozzle up and carefully spray the underside of the foliage. This is where most of the pests and diseases reside. Finish with a quicker pass over the top. Spray in all cases to the point of water run-off. The trick is to cover the whole plant without getting any on yourself.
Empty the Tank
Estimate the amount of spray material you need and load only this amount. If you have spray material left over, plan to use it on other landscape shrubs such as azaleas and camellias. This alone is a good reason to grow "companion plants" for roses as they provide a good dumping ground for excess spray material. The ideal is to have none left over as you will want to avoid dumping it into the sewer as this risks contaminating the water supply.
Clean Up Carefully
As a final matter it is important to clean up after yourself. Rinse your measuring cups and spoons. Tighten the bottle caps and rinse off the bottle tops if necessary. Put them away in a high, safe, and secure dark place. Lock them up to keep them out of the hands of children. Rinse out your sprayer and put it away as well. Throw your clothes in the washer and take a shower. Wait till the spray material dries before going among your roses to admire your handiwork.
CHEMICAL GUIDE
The information set forth in this guide is summarized from information contained in the manufacturer's label. It is intended for planning purposes and as a reminder of the recommended rates of application. It is a violation of Federal law to use any of these products in a manner incon- sistent with its labeling. READ THE LABELS.
Toxicity Categories
All Chemicals bear toxicity labels which assess their toxicity. These categories are --
I - Highly Toxic - Signal word "DANGER" (The signal word "DANGER" without the skull and crossbones means that the toxicity rating is based on eye and skin irritation).
II - Moderately Toxic - Signal Word "WARNING"
III - Slightly Toxic - Signal Word "CAUTION"
IV - Relatively Nontoxic - Signal Word "CAUTION"
Hotline
The National Pesticide Telecommunications Network has a 24-hour toll-free number to answer questions on the proper use or effects of pesticides.
Call: (800) 858 -7378 (PEST)
Abbreviations:
ai-active ingredient
DF-dry flowable
E/EC-emulsifiable concentrate
F/FL-flowable
G-granule
W/WP-wettable powder
Insecticides and Miticides:
Avid 0.15 EC (Abamectin) - Broad spectrum systemic miticide for control of spider mites; derived from a naturally occuring soil microorganism. Restricted to commercial use in certain localities. III-CAUTION. Mix 1/4 teaspoon per gallon
Azatin EC (3.0% Azadirachtin) - Systemic insecticide derived from neem oil for control of caterpillers, Japanese beetles, and leafrollers with suppressive effect on aphids and thrips. IV - CAUTION. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Bioneem (Same as Margosan-O)
Cygon 2E (Dimethoate) - Contact insecticide for control of aphids, leafhoppers and thrips. II-WARNING. Mix 2 teaspoons per gallon.
Diazinon (25% ai) - Broad spectrum contact insecticide for control of aphids, leafhoppers, mites and thrips. II-WARNING. Mix 1/2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Dursban (6.7% Chlorpyrifos) - Contact insecticide for control of pupating thrips and other soil inhabiting insects. Use as a soil spray only. III-CAUTION. Mix 2 teaspoons per gallon.
Isotox Formula IV - Dual purpose insecticide/miticide combining Orthene and Vendex. I- DANGER. Mix 3 Tablespoons per gallon.
Margosan-O (0.25% Azadirachtin) - Systemic oil based insecticide derived from neem oil; less concentrated than Azatin. IV - CAUTION. Mix 1 1/2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Malathion (50% ai) - Contact insecticide/miticide for control of aphids, Japanese beetles(adult), leafhoppers, scale and thrips. III-CAUTION. Mix 1 Tablespoon per gallon.
Mavrik Aquaflow (Fluvalinate) - Broad spectrum contact insecticide/miticide for control of aphids, cucumber beetles, caterpillers, leafhoppers and spider mites. Shake well before using; avoid breathing spray mix. Recommended for commercial use. III-CAUTION. Mix 1/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Orthene (9.4% ai) - Systemic insecticide for control of aphids, Japanese beetles, leafrollers, rose midge and thrips. II -WARNING. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Orthene 75% WP - Concentrated powdered form of Orthene. III-CAUTION. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Orthenix Formula III - Multi-purpose insecticide/fungicide/miticide combining Orthene, Funginex and Vendex. I-DANGER. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Safer Insecticidal Soap (Potassium salts of fatty acids) - Contact insecticide for control of aphids, grasshoppers, leafhoppers, spider mites and thrips. IV-CAUTION. Mix 2-5 Tablespoons per gallon.
Sevin (22.5% Carbaryl) - Contact insecticide for control of aphids, grasshoppers, Japanese beetles, leafhoppers, leafrollers and scale.III-CAUTION. Mix 4 teaspoons per gallon.
Stirrup M - Pheremone (sex attractant) for spider mites; used to enhance effectiveness of miticides. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per 2 gallons.
Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil (Refined petroleum distillate) - Contact insecticide/miticide for control of aphids, scale and spider mites. Reported to have phytotoxic effects if sprayed in direct sunshine; will foul certain sprayers. IV-CAUTION. Mix 2 1/2 - 5 Tablespoons per gallon.
Vendex 50 WP - Powdered form of contact miticide contained in Isotox Formula IV and Orthenex Formula III. I-DANGER. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoons per gallon.
Fungicides:
Alliete (80% WP) - Systemic fungicide for control of downy mildew. III-CAUTION. Mix 2- 4 Tablespoons per gallon. (Do not mix with any sticker, extender or wetting agent.)
Bayleton (25% Triadimefon) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew. May shorten stems. (See also Fung-Away for a less concentrated formulation). II-WARNING. Mix 1/4 tea- spoon per gallon.
Benlate (Same as Benomyl)
Benomyl (50% ai) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew, black spot, anthracnose and botrytis. Reported to reduce bloom size. Development of resistance noted with repeated and exclusive use. III-CAUTION. Mix 1/2-1 Tablespoons per gallon.
Bravo (Same as Daconil 2787)
Captan 50W - Broad spectrum fungicide for control of damping off of seedlings and rooted cuttings, black spot and botrytis. III-CAUTION. Mix 1 Tablespoon per gallon.
Cleary's 3336-F (Thiophanate-Methyl) - Broad spectrum carbamate fungicide for control of black spot, powdery mildew, anthracnose and botrytis. III-CAUTION. Mix 1 1/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Daconil 2787 (29.6% Chlorothalinol) - Broad spectrum fungicide for control of black spot, alternaria leaf spot, anthracnose, botrytis, rust and powdery mildew with some effect against downy mildew. Known to have phytotoxic effect on foliage.
II-WARNING. Mix 5 teaspoons per 2 gallons.
Dithane M-45 (Same as Mancozeb)
Eagle (40% Myclobutanil) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew. Same as Rally 40X except that it comes in smaller water-soluble pouches intended to be added directly to spray tank. Development of resistance noted with exclusive use. III-CAUTION. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Fore (80% Mancozeb) - Powdered Mancozeb formulation with a light green dye designed for use on turf but also approved for ornamentals. III-CAUTION. Mix 1 Tablespoon per gallon.
Fung-Away (0.88% Triadimefon) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew. May shorten stems. (See also Bayleton for a more concentrated formulation). III-CAUTION. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Fungi-gard (11.24% Chlorothalinol) - Same as Daconil 2787 with less concentrated formulation; Aqua Blend flowable solvent free formula reduces phytotoxic effect. II-WARNING. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Funginex (6.5% Triforine) - Systemic fungicide for control of black spot, powdery mildew and rust. I-DANGER (Potential eye damage from inert ingredients). Mix 1 Tablespoon per gallon.
Funginil (11.24% Chlorothalinol) - Alternative formulation comparable to Fungi-gard; see also Daconil 2787.
II-WARNING. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Mancozeb (75% ai) - Broad spectrum bisdithiocarbamate fungicide containing manganese and zinc ions for control of black spot, alternaria leaf spot, anthracnose and botrytis; effective against downy mildew. See also Dithane M-45, Fore, Manzate 200DF and Pace.
III-CAUTION. Mix 3 Tablespoons per 5 gallons.
Maneb - Broad spectrum carbamate fungicide containing manganese ions for control of black spot with some effect on downy mildew. III-CAUTION. Mix 3 Tablespoons per 5 gallons.
Manzate 200DF (Same as Mancozeb)
Pace - Combination of 7.0% Metalaxyl (See Subdue) and 70.0% Mancozeb for use on turf; effective against downy mildew. III-CAUTION. Mix 4 Tablespoons per 5 gallons.
Rally 40X (40% Myclobutanil) - Same product as Eagle authorized for use on grapes and tree fruits. Comes in large water-soluble pouches intended to be added directly to the spray tank. Development of resistance noted with exclusive use. III-CAUTION. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Rubigan EC (Fenarimol) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew. Leaf puckering noted when sprayed under cool, foggy or overcast conditions; development of resistance has been noted. III-CAUTION. Mix 1/2 teaspoon per gallon.
Strike (Same as Bayleton)
Subdue 2E (25.1% Metalaxyl) - Systemic fungicide for control of damping-off and root and stem rot diseases; effective against downy mildew. Use as a soil drench; do not apply more than once every six weeks. II-WARNING. Mix 1 Tablespoon per 32 gallons; apply 2 gallons per full size bush.
Triforine EC (18.2% Triforine) - Concentrated form of Funginex. I-DANGER (Potential eye damage from inert ingredients). For Commercial and Agricultural Use Only. Mix 1 teaspoon per gallon.
Selecting a Sprayer
There are four types of sprayers: (1) Compression; (2) Hose end; (3) Electric; and (4) Trigger. The key to the purchase of a sprayer is to buy a sprayer adequate to the task. Constant refills of a sprayer costs time and effort and discourages the rosarian from practicing a proper spray program. In addition excess spray material presents a problem of disposal which is an environmental concern with which we can all agree.
To determine the size of the sprayer that you need a good rule of thumb is that one gallon of spray material will, on average, service 24 full-size leafed-out hybrid tea, grandiflora or floribunda roses. Miniatures count as 1/3 to 1/2 a full-size rose depending on size. Climbers count as two roses. Using these ratios, count the equivalent number of full size roses and divide by 24. This will indicate the minimum size of the sprayer you should select in order to service your rose garden with a minimum of effort. If you plan to add more roses in the future you should take this into consideration as well; err, if necessary, on the side of having a larger sprayer than may be immediately necessary.
It should also be noted that misting of buds and blooms for minor infestations of thrips and aphids can be accomplished with a small sprayer. It is therefore useful to have a full-size sprayer and a smaller one for such purposes.
Compression Sprayers
Compression sprayers are sprayers which are manually pumped up to provide air pressure for the delivery of the spray material. Such sprayers can deliver a great deal of spray material at a relatively even pace and the pumping generally requires much less effort than trigger sprayers (described below).
For larger gardens the constant pumping can prove tiring. Further, the pumping mechanism tends to leak as time goes by requiring more effort to pump up the sprayer.
Compression sprayers come in many sizes. Water is surprisingly heavy and the larger the sprayer, the heavier it becomes. For these reasons compression sprayers are practicable at a maximum capacity of 3-4 gallons. They are available with carrying straps or as a backpack. The backpack sprayers typically have a piston pump and have a larger capacity.
Compression sprayers are available in metal or plastic. Metal sprayers tend to become dented and corroded and seldom last whatever their construction. It is therefore better to buy a strong plastic sprayer which will last longer and is also lighter.
In selecting a compression sprayer, preference should be given to one with a wide mouth to permit ease of filling. The nozzle should be of brass and the end easily unscrewed to permit removal of obstructions which will occur no matter how careful you may be. It is useful to bend a paper clip around the strap which can be used to poke through the unscrewed nozzle to remove obstructions when they occur.
The most convenient size for compression sprayers is one of 2-3 gallons. A 1/2 gallon poly sprayer is very useful for spot applications.
Hose-End Sprayers
Hose end sprayers attach to the end of the garden hose and have a small jar with a dial mechanism to regulate the amount of spray material per gallon. Some can actually be screwed directly onto bottles of chemicals for delivery. All are relatively inexpensive.
Hose-end sprayers deliver a lot of spray with a minimum of effort. But the measuring apparatus is crude and permits wide variation in delivery of chemicals. A further disadvantage of a hose end sprayer is that it is difficult if not impossible to spray the underside of the leaves without spraying the solution all over your body. Users of such sprayers should wear a mask and pay careful attention to protection from overspray.
Electric Sprayers
For larger gardens, and for those who wish to minimize the time and effort of spraying without sacrifice of precise control, the sprayer of choice is an electrically powered sprayer. The disadvantage here is principally one of cost as such sprayers are easily the most expensive by far.
A very popular model among large scale rosarians is the Atomist Airblast Model 1026A. It is relatively small, holding only 1.5 gallons however is easily refillable or it can be hooked up by a hose to a larger holding tank. The Atomist is a true "mister" which atomizes the spray particles and provides excellent coverage of both the tops and bottoms of the foliage. It is expensive. On the other hand users report it to be extremely hardy and reliable, outlasting by several times a typical compression sprayer of the same size.
An Atomist-type sprayer raises legitimate concern about its small capacity and the necessity of constant remixing to spray a large garden. It should also be noted that it creates very small size particles which are easy to inhale, thus creating the potential of more danger to its user.
An alternative is an electrical sprayer which has a capacity of about 12 gallons and comes on large wheels with an attached hose of perhaps 15 feet in length. Such sprayers are typically powered by a 12-volt rechargeable battery and produce a consistent spray pattern comparable to a new compression sprayer.
Trigger Sprayers
At the other extreme from the electric sprayer is the trigger sprayer. A trigger sprayer is like a plastic Windex bottle with a plastic trigger handle. They are of very small capacity and tiring to use on all but the smallest jobs. They are, however, quite inexpensive and can be useful in the case of very small rose gardens or for misting of a small number of blooms. Trigger sprayers are widely available as unmarked plastic containers; it is important that a label be applied which indicates its use so that it won't be mixed up with other household chemicals.
HOW TO SPRAY
Consider Your Immediate Environment
The "environment" referred to here is the condition found "right now" in your garden. Do not plan to spray if it is very windy as you cannot control coverage and will wind up spraying everything in sight, including yourself. Do not plan to spray when it is too hot but do plan to allow enough daylight after spraying to permit drying. Water your roses first to deter spray burn. Do not spray when other wildlife are active, such as bees, butterflies, birds, cats, dogs and children. The best time to spray is early morning when it is still and the rest of the world is still sleeping or at coffee.
Dress for Success
The toxicity of garden chemicals is generally minimal, however it should be remembered that sprays are intended to be toxic to rose pests and rose disease and even minimally toxic sprays can be harmful to the rosarian. Tank tops, shorts and sandals are poor fashion for spraying. Wear a long sleeve shirt and long denim pants. Wear boots or other protective footwear. And always wear eye protection. Consider wearing a mask if you're going to do a lot of spraying; but don't let the fact that you're wearing a mask permit you to become sloppy. Finally, wear good rubber gloves.
Follow Directions
Select the chemicals you plan to spray. Then learn the exact application required and use it. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find that proper application for roses amid the governmental warnings and other fine print on the label or accompanying pamphlet which you will have lost. Use the Chemical Guide set forth below. It is a good idea to post a copy in your garage or garden shed for convenient reference. And once you've determined the recommended application amount ĦE use it. More is not better nor is less necessarily safer and more environmentally correct. Lots of research has gone into the manufacturer's recommendation. Also, don't guess at the right amount; invest in a set of measuring spoons and cups and use them to measure precisely.
Stick It to the Foliage
A spreader-sticker is simply a soap like product which breaks the water tension and permits spreading and adhesion of the spray material on and to the foliage. Commercial products are available in the nursery but they are typically expensive. A good alternative is Ivory dishwashing liquid (or a similar inexpensive dishwashing liquid). Add about a Tablespoon per gallon. Another alternative when using a systemic insecticide is insecticidal soap which will also add some contact killing power to the mix.
Use Good Water
Most chemicals are more effective in slightly acidic water. In areas where water is typically alkaline you should acidify the water with about a Tablespoon or two of white vinegar per gallon. Use clean water; recycling is not good for this purpose. Some good spreader-stickers have properties which buffer the water to the proper pH.
Keep Your Nozzle Clean
The best nozzle for sprayers is made of brass but any nozzle will become clogged from time to time no matter how careful you are. Reduce the risk of clogging by mixing ingredients carefully in clean water. Powders and emulsifiable concentrates ("EC") are best pre-mixed in a jar of warm water. When your sprayer is not in use keep the top loosely on so that foreign material will not fall into the tank. Be prepared for clogs by not overtightening the nozzle thus permitting you to screw it off by hand. Use a clean metal object to poke the obstruction out of the nozzle, not back into the tank where it will inevitably surface again. Consider wrapping a paper clip around the strap for this purpose so you don't have to wander all over the yard and garage looking for a pin. Finally, do not point the wand at your face when you are cleaning the nozzle. Poke the obstruction out of the nozzle and if you want to be sure the wand is clear spray some material on the ground around a rose to flush the system before reattaching the nozzle.
Attack Downwind
Even though you have selected a windless time to spray the wind will begin to blow as soon as you've filled up the tank. Take note of its direction. Spray downwind away from your body so that the overspray cloud floats away from you.
Get Good Coverage
Take your time in spraying to do it right and you won't have to do it as often. Spray in two passes. On the first pass turn your nozzle up and carefully spray the underside of the foliage. This is where most of the pests and diseases reside. Finish with a quicker pass over the top. Spray in all cases to the point of water run-off. The trick is to cover the whole plant without getting any on yourself.
Empty the Tank
Estimate the amount of spray material you need and load only this amount. If you have spray material left over, plan to use it on other landscape shrubs such as azaleas and camellias. This alone is a good reason to grow "companion plants" for roses as they provide a good dumping ground for excess spray material. The ideal is to have none left over as you will want to avoid dumping it into the sewer as this risks contaminating the water supply.
Clean Up Carefully
As a final matter it is important to clean up after yourself. Rinse your measuring cups and spoons. Tighten the bottle caps and rinse off the bottle tops if necessary. Put them away in a high, safe, and secure dark place. Lock them up to keep them out of the hands of children. Rinse out your sprayer and put it away as well. Throw your clothes in the washer and take a shower. Wait till the spray material dries before going among your roses to admire your handiwork.
CHEMICAL GUIDE
The information set forth in this guide is summarized from information contained in the manufacturer's label. It is intended for planning purposes and as a reminder of the recommended rates of application. It is a violation of Federal law to use any of these products in a manner incon- sistent with its labeling. READ THE LABELS.
Toxicity Categories
All Chemicals bear toxicity labels which assess their toxicity. These categories are --
I - Highly Toxic - Signal word "DANGER" (The signal word "DANGER" without the skull and crossbones means that the toxicity rating is based on eye and skin irritation).
II - Moderately Toxic - Signal Word "WARNING"
III - Slightly Toxic - Signal Word "CAUTION"
IV - Relatively Nontoxic - Signal Word "CAUTION"
Hotline
The National Pesticide Telecommunications Network has a 24-hour toll-free number to answer questions on the proper use or effects of pesticides.
Call: (800) 858 -7378 (PEST)
Abbreviations:
ai-active ingredient
DF-dry flowable
E/EC-emulsifiable concentrate
F/FL-flowable
G-granule
W/WP-wettable powder
Insecticides and Miticides:
Avid 0.15 EC (Abamectin) - Broad spectrum systemic miticide for control of spider mites; derived from a naturally occuring soil microorganism. Restricted to commercial use in certain localities. III-CAUTION. Mix 1/4 teaspoon per gallon
Azatin EC (3.0% Azadirachtin) - Systemic insecticide derived from neem oil for control of caterpillers, Japanese beetles, and leafrollers with suppressive effect on aphids and thrips. IV - CAUTION. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Bioneem (Same as Margosan-O)
Cygon 2E (Dimethoate) - Contact insecticide for control of aphids, leafhoppers and thrips. II-WARNING. Mix 2 teaspoons per gallon.
Diazinon (25% ai) - Broad spectrum contact insecticide for control of aphids, leafhoppers, mites and thrips. II-WARNING. Mix 1/2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Dursban (6.7% Chlorpyrifos) - Contact insecticide for control of pupating thrips and other soil inhabiting insects. Use as a soil spray only. III-CAUTION. Mix 2 teaspoons per gallon.
Isotox Formula IV - Dual purpose insecticide/miticide combining Orthene and Vendex. I- DANGER. Mix 3 Tablespoons per gallon.
Margosan-O (0.25% Azadirachtin) - Systemic oil based insecticide derived from neem oil; less concentrated than Azatin. IV - CAUTION. Mix 1 1/2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Malathion (50% ai) - Contact insecticide/miticide for control of aphids, Japanese beetles(adult), leafhoppers, scale and thrips. III-CAUTION. Mix 1 Tablespoon per gallon.
Mavrik Aquaflow (Fluvalinate) - Broad spectrum contact insecticide/miticide for control of aphids, cucumber beetles, caterpillers, leafhoppers and spider mites. Shake well before using; avoid breathing spray mix. Recommended for commercial use. III-CAUTION. Mix 1/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Orthene (9.4% ai) - Systemic insecticide for control of aphids, Japanese beetles, leafrollers, rose midge and thrips. II -WARNING. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Orthene 75% WP - Concentrated powdered form of Orthene. III-CAUTION. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Orthenix Formula III - Multi-purpose insecticide/fungicide/miticide combining Orthene, Funginex and Vendex. I-DANGER. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Safer Insecticidal Soap (Potassium salts of fatty acids) - Contact insecticide for control of aphids, grasshoppers, leafhoppers, spider mites and thrips. IV-CAUTION. Mix 2-5 Tablespoons per gallon.
Sevin (22.5% Carbaryl) - Contact insecticide for control of aphids, grasshoppers, Japanese beetles, leafhoppers, leafrollers and scale.III-CAUTION. Mix 4 teaspoons per gallon.
Stirrup M - Pheremone (sex attractant) for spider mites; used to enhance effectiveness of miticides. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per 2 gallons.
Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil (Refined petroleum distillate) - Contact insecticide/miticide for control of aphids, scale and spider mites. Reported to have phytotoxic effects if sprayed in direct sunshine; will foul certain sprayers. IV-CAUTION. Mix 2 1/2 - 5 Tablespoons per gallon.
Vendex 50 WP - Powdered form of contact miticide contained in Isotox Formula IV and Orthenex Formula III. I-DANGER. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoons per gallon.
Fungicides:
Alliete (80% WP) - Systemic fungicide for control of downy mildew. III-CAUTION. Mix 2- 4 Tablespoons per gallon. (Do not mix with any sticker, extender or wetting agent.)
Bayleton (25% Triadimefon) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew. May shorten stems. (See also Fung-Away for a less concentrated formulation). II-WARNING. Mix 1/4 tea- spoon per gallon.
Benlate (Same as Benomyl)
Benomyl (50% ai) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew, black spot, anthracnose and botrytis. Reported to reduce bloom size. Development of resistance noted with repeated and exclusive use. III-CAUTION. Mix 1/2-1 Tablespoons per gallon.
Bravo (Same as Daconil 2787)
Captan 50W - Broad spectrum fungicide for control of damping off of seedlings and rooted cuttings, black spot and botrytis. III-CAUTION. Mix 1 Tablespoon per gallon.
Cleary's 3336-F (Thiophanate-Methyl) - Broad spectrum carbamate fungicide for control of black spot, powdery mildew, anthracnose and botrytis. III-CAUTION. Mix 1 1/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Daconil 2787 (29.6% Chlorothalinol) - Broad spectrum fungicide for control of black spot, alternaria leaf spot, anthracnose, botrytis, rust and powdery mildew with some effect against downy mildew. Known to have phytotoxic effect on foliage.
II-WARNING. Mix 5 teaspoons per 2 gallons.
Dithane M-45 (Same as Mancozeb)
Eagle (40% Myclobutanil) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew. Same as Rally 40X except that it comes in smaller water-soluble pouches intended to be added directly to spray tank. Development of resistance noted with exclusive use. III-CAUTION. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Fore (80% Mancozeb) - Powdered Mancozeb formulation with a light green dye designed for use on turf but also approved for ornamentals. III-CAUTION. Mix 1 Tablespoon per gallon.
Fung-Away (0.88% Triadimefon) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew. May shorten stems. (See also Bayleton for a more concentrated formulation). III-CAUTION. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Fungi-gard (11.24% Chlorothalinol) - Same as Daconil 2787 with less concentrated formulation; Aqua Blend flowable solvent free formula reduces phytotoxic effect. II-WARNING. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Funginex (6.5% Triforine) - Systemic fungicide for control of black spot, powdery mildew and rust. I-DANGER (Potential eye damage from inert ingredients). Mix 1 Tablespoon per gallon.
Funginil (11.24% Chlorothalinol) - Alternative formulation comparable to Fungi-gard; see also Daconil 2787.
II-WARNING. Mix 2 Tablespoons per gallon.
Mancozeb (75% ai) - Broad spectrum bisdithiocarbamate fungicide containing manganese and zinc ions for control of black spot, alternaria leaf spot, anthracnose and botrytis; effective against downy mildew. See also Dithane M-45, Fore, Manzate 200DF and Pace.
III-CAUTION. Mix 3 Tablespoons per 5 gallons.
Maneb - Broad spectrum carbamate fungicide containing manganese ions for control of black spot with some effect on downy mildew. III-CAUTION. Mix 3 Tablespoons per 5 gallons.
Manzate 200DF (Same as Mancozeb)
Pace - Combination of 7.0% Metalaxyl (See Subdue) and 70.0% Mancozeb for use on turf; effective against downy mildew. III-CAUTION. Mix 4 Tablespoons per 5 gallons.
Rally 40X (40% Myclobutanil) - Same product as Eagle authorized for use on grapes and tree fruits. Comes in large water-soluble pouches intended to be added directly to the spray tank. Development of resistance noted with exclusive use. III-CAUTION. Mix 3/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Rubigan EC (Fenarimol) - Systemic fungicide for control of powdery mildew. Leaf puckering noted when sprayed under cool, foggy or overcast conditions; development of resistance has been noted. III-CAUTION. Mix 1/2 teaspoon per gallon.
Strike (Same as Bayleton)
Subdue 2E (25.1% Metalaxyl) - Systemic fungicide for control of damping-off and root and stem rot diseases; effective against downy mildew. Use as a soil drench; do not apply more than once every six weeks. II-WARNING. Mix 1 Tablespoon per 32 gallons; apply 2 gallons per full size bush.
Triforine EC (18.2% Triforine) - Concentrated form of Funginex. I-DANGER (Potential eye damage from inert ingredients). For Commercial and Agricultural Use Only. Mix 1 teaspoon per gallon.
