Propagating Roses
Most of us who grow roses have one or more varieties that we think of as favorites and of which we would like to have additional plants. Many times, these favorites are older varieties which are no longer commercially available. However, propagating roses by rooting softwood cuttings is a reasonably simple way of obtaining more of your favorite non-patented roses. Many Old Garden Roses, shrub roses and miniature roses will grow quite vigorously on their own roots. Modern hybrid teas and floribundas are less predictable, but certainly worth trying.
There are many techniques and approaches to rooting cuttings, but all of them meet certain important requirements. First of all, the cuttings must have a moist medium in which to begin developing a root system. Secondly, the cuttings must have a moist atmosphere in order to reduce water lose through their leaves. There are two common methods used by rose hobbyists which meet these needs: the "pop bottle" method, and the "baggie" method. What both of the methods have in common, however, is the selection and preparation of the cutting itself.
Selecting the Cutting
The Timing: The best stems for taking softwood cuttings are those which have recently bloomed, but which have not yet started active growth at the new bud eyes along the stem. The bud eyes should, however, be visible and just beginning to swell. When in doubt, it is better to take those with smaller bud eyes, rather than larger. Also, it is best to take the cutting after the bush has been well-watered.
The Stem: Be sure to choose a healthy, disease-free stem. Any remaining bloom parts should be removed from the stem by pruning back to the first 5-leaflet leafset (or 7-leaflet set on those varieties which tend to produce them). Next, count 4 or 5 leafsets down the stem and make the bottom cut on an angle, 1/4" below that leafset. The lower 2 or 3 leafsets should then be stripped from the stem, taking care not to tear the outer layer of the stem. Depending on the size of the remaining foliage, the ending leaflets on the leafsets may also be removed to insure that the foliage is not crowded in the baggie or bottle. The bottom of the stem may then be dipped in rooting hormone (powder or liquid) and planted using one of the following methods.
The "Pop-Bottle" Method
The key to this approach is the construction of "greenhouses" for the cuttings, using empty 2-liter soft-drink bottles and individual pots. The bottom of the bottle should be cut off with a sharp utility knife, right where the solid-colored section is joined to the clear section. Discard the bottom, but keep the bottle cap. The pots should be inexpensive plastic pots, slightly larger than 4" in diameter (some suppliers call them CL100's). Using this size pot, the top of the soda bottle should just fit snugly inside the pot rim.
Fill the pots firmly with a sterile potting mix which is moist, but not soggy. Do not use a soilless mix, or one that has a high percentage of vermiculite. The soilless mixes generally do not have enough nutrient content to sustain growth. Those with a high vermiculite content tend to compact and provide insufficient drainage and aeration for the root systems. Use a pencil, or other similarly-shaped implement, to poke a hole in the soil. (If you are short of pots, 2, or even 3, cuttings can be planted in the same pot.) Make sure the hole is deep enough so that at least the bottom 2 bud eyes on the cutting will be below surface level. Place the cutting in the hole and firm the soil very tightly around it.
Place the top from the soda bottle over the cutting and press it gently into the soil. Make sure that there are no gaps through which evaporation could occur. Put the cap on the bottle, but do not tighten. After approximately 2 hours, check the bottles to make sure there is some moisture condensed on the inside of each. If not, your soil may not have been moist enough and a small amount of additional water should be added. Place the pots in a bright location, but NOT in direct sunlight. I have had success locating them on a north-facing windowsill, outdoors under the shade of a dense tree, or under florescent lights.
After 1 week, remove the caps from the bottles to begin letting air circulate around the plant. After 3 to 4 weeks, you should start to see new growth beginning from the bud eyes. At this point, roots have probably begun to form. However, I have had the most success when the bottles have been left over the pots for as long as possible (sometimes until the new growth actually pushes the bottle off). When the new growth becomes fairly large, begin acclimating the plant to lower humidity by gradually removing the bottle top for longer periods each day. Start with 5 minutes and keep a spray bottle of water handy in case a plant wilts quickly.
Once the plants have adjusted to normal humidity, they should be allowed to grow in their pots until they are just beginning to become rootbound. Watch for the first signs of small, white roots protruding from the bottoms of the pots. When plants become slightly potbound, they may then be planted out in the garden, weather and seasons permitting. Otherwise, they may be grown on, in larger pots, indoors under high-intensity lights.
The "Baggie" Method
In this method, large, resealable, zipper-lock plastic food storage bags are used to create the "greenhouse" atmosphere required for rooting the cuttings. To begin, fold the top of the bag down several inches in order to keep the "zipper" clean while filling the bag. Place 4 or 5 handfuls of moistened potting soil into the bag; firm both soil and bag into a ball shape with a flattened bottom. Use a pencil or similarly-shaped object to poke a 2" deep hole in the soil. Insert the cutting and firm the soil tightly around it. Unfold the top of the bag and close most of the zipper, leaving the last 1" open. Breathe into the bag to inflate it, then quickly close the remaining length. Finally, place the bag in indirect light (as described in the "pop-bottle" method).
The acclimation of the newly-rooted plants should be done gradually, just as in the previous method. Again, it is best to delay opening the bags until new top growth can no longer be accomodated within the bag. Once the plants have adjusted to normal humidity, they can be place in regular pots to continue their growth.
There are many techniques and approaches to rooting cuttings, but all of them meet certain important requirements. First of all, the cuttings must have a moist medium in which to begin developing a root system. Secondly, the cuttings must have a moist atmosphere in order to reduce water lose through their leaves. There are two common methods used by rose hobbyists which meet these needs: the "pop bottle" method, and the "baggie" method. What both of the methods have in common, however, is the selection and preparation of the cutting itself.
Selecting the Cutting
The Timing: The best stems for taking softwood cuttings are those which have recently bloomed, but which have not yet started active growth at the new bud eyes along the stem. The bud eyes should, however, be visible and just beginning to swell. When in doubt, it is better to take those with smaller bud eyes, rather than larger. Also, it is best to take the cutting after the bush has been well-watered.
The Stem: Be sure to choose a healthy, disease-free stem. Any remaining bloom parts should be removed from the stem by pruning back to the first 5-leaflet leafset (or 7-leaflet set on those varieties which tend to produce them). Next, count 4 or 5 leafsets down the stem and make the bottom cut on an angle, 1/4" below that leafset. The lower 2 or 3 leafsets should then be stripped from the stem, taking care not to tear the outer layer of the stem. Depending on the size of the remaining foliage, the ending leaflets on the leafsets may also be removed to insure that the foliage is not crowded in the baggie or bottle. The bottom of the stem may then be dipped in rooting hormone (powder or liquid) and planted using one of the following methods.
The "Pop-Bottle" Method
The key to this approach is the construction of "greenhouses" for the cuttings, using empty 2-liter soft-drink bottles and individual pots. The bottom of the bottle should be cut off with a sharp utility knife, right where the solid-colored section is joined to the clear section. Discard the bottom, but keep the bottle cap. The pots should be inexpensive plastic pots, slightly larger than 4" in diameter (some suppliers call them CL100's). Using this size pot, the top of the soda bottle should just fit snugly inside the pot rim.
Fill the pots firmly with a sterile potting mix which is moist, but not soggy. Do not use a soilless mix, or one that has a high percentage of vermiculite. The soilless mixes generally do not have enough nutrient content to sustain growth. Those with a high vermiculite content tend to compact and provide insufficient drainage and aeration for the root systems. Use a pencil, or other similarly-shaped implement, to poke a hole in the soil. (If you are short of pots, 2, or even 3, cuttings can be planted in the same pot.) Make sure the hole is deep enough so that at least the bottom 2 bud eyes on the cutting will be below surface level. Place the cutting in the hole and firm the soil very tightly around it.
Place the top from the soda bottle over the cutting and press it gently into the soil. Make sure that there are no gaps through which evaporation could occur. Put the cap on the bottle, but do not tighten. After approximately 2 hours, check the bottles to make sure there is some moisture condensed on the inside of each. If not, your soil may not have been moist enough and a small amount of additional water should be added. Place the pots in a bright location, but NOT in direct sunlight. I have had success locating them on a north-facing windowsill, outdoors under the shade of a dense tree, or under florescent lights.
After 1 week, remove the caps from the bottles to begin letting air circulate around the plant. After 3 to 4 weeks, you should start to see new growth beginning from the bud eyes. At this point, roots have probably begun to form. However, I have had the most success when the bottles have been left over the pots for as long as possible (sometimes until the new growth actually pushes the bottle off). When the new growth becomes fairly large, begin acclimating the plant to lower humidity by gradually removing the bottle top for longer periods each day. Start with 5 minutes and keep a spray bottle of water handy in case a plant wilts quickly.
Once the plants have adjusted to normal humidity, they should be allowed to grow in their pots until they are just beginning to become rootbound. Watch for the first signs of small, white roots protruding from the bottoms of the pots. When plants become slightly potbound, they may then be planted out in the garden, weather and seasons permitting. Otherwise, they may be grown on, in larger pots, indoors under high-intensity lights.
The "Baggie" Method
In this method, large, resealable, zipper-lock plastic food storage bags are used to create the "greenhouse" atmosphere required for rooting the cuttings. To begin, fold the top of the bag down several inches in order to keep the "zipper" clean while filling the bag. Place 4 or 5 handfuls of moistened potting soil into the bag; firm both soil and bag into a ball shape with a flattened bottom. Use a pencil or similarly-shaped object to poke a 2" deep hole in the soil. Insert the cutting and firm the soil tightly around it. Unfold the top of the bag and close most of the zipper, leaving the last 1" open. Breathe into the bag to inflate it, then quickly close the remaining length. Finally, place the bag in indirect light (as described in the "pop-bottle" method).
The acclimation of the newly-rooted plants should be done gradually, just as in the previous method. Again, it is best to delay opening the bags until new top growth can no longer be accomodated within the bag. Once the plants have adjusted to normal humidity, they can be place in regular pots to continue their growth.
