Propagating Roses - Chip Budding
Roses can be propagated many different ways. Grafting is a very old method of perpetuating select varieties of roses. The most common method of grafting of roses is T-budding. I will describe in the following paragraphs another and perhaps more useful method of grafting known as chip budding.
Roses are normally very easy to bud graft. Chip budding involves removing a small piece (3/4" to 1") from the rootstock and then replacing it with a similar sized chip that contains a growth bud from the select variety (or scion). Chip budding can be used very effectively with roses. The main advantage over T-budding is that the bark of the rootstock does not need to "slip." Chip budding can be done at any time of the year. It is not restricted to times when the rose rootstock is only in active growth. In addition, chip buds tend to heal faster and the graft union between the new variety and rootstock tends to be stronger.
Grafting is an art as well as a science. Not all successful grafters will chip bud the same way. I will list the steps that I use with some helpful hints mixed in.
The rose you choose for your understock should be healthy, vigorous and disease free. Be sure that the rose is free of rose viruses. If the rootstock is infected with a virus, it will spread into your select variety.
The rose you choose for your understock should be healthy, vigorous and disease free. Be sure that the rose is free of rose viruses. If the rootstock is infected with a virus, it will spread into your select variety.
There are four easy steps to chip budding. They are:
Roses are normally very easy to bud graft. Chip budding involves removing a small piece (3/4" to 1") from the rootstock and then replacing it with a similar sized chip that contains a growth bud from the select variety (or scion). Chip budding can be used very effectively with roses. The main advantage over T-budding is that the bark of the rootstock does not need to "slip." Chip budding can be done at any time of the year. It is not restricted to times when the rose rootstock is only in active growth. In addition, chip buds tend to heal faster and the graft union between the new variety and rootstock tends to be stronger.
Grafting is an art as well as a science. Not all successful grafters will chip bud the same way. I will list the steps that I use with some helpful hints mixed in.
The rose you choose for your understock should be healthy, vigorous and disease free. Be sure that the rose is free of rose viruses. If the rootstock is infected with a virus, it will spread into your select variety.
The rose you choose for your understock should be healthy, vigorous and disease free. Be sure that the rose is free of rose viruses. If the rootstock is infected with a virus, it will spread into your select variety.
There are four easy steps to chip budding. They are:
- Preparing the rootstock.
Scrub up - you're about to perform surgery! Clean the spot on the stem where you will make your incision by wiping that area of the stem with a soap and water solution. Dry the stem with a soft cloth to remove any soapy water. Make a 30-degree notch cut into the stem no deeper than one quarter to one sixth the thickness of the stem. Next, start 1 inch above this notch and make a tapered cut down and slightly into the rootstock. Again your incision in to the rootstock should be the same depth as your first notch cut. This cut will meet the original cut at the base of the chip. - Removing the select bud.
Select a bud stick that is nearly the exact diameter of the rootstock. From the bud stick of the select rose, cut a chip bud about 1 inch long. The size and shape should match as accurately as possible the chip removed from the rootstock. The closer the match, the more successful the chip bud take will likely be. Leave the petiole stub on the chip bud, as this is a handy 'handle' for the technician to hang onto - Insert the bud.
Place the scion chip of the select variety in the notch on the prepared rootstock. Check to see that the bud chip is seated in the notch correctly and securely. - Wrap the bud.
Enclose the bud tightly with budding rubber, parafilm, grafting tape or polyethylene (not scotch tape) grafting strips. Start at below the chip bud and wrap upwards. The chip should be firmly seated and completely covered by the wrap. The graft union should callus and heal in about 3 weeks.
If the wrapping material has not fallen off, remove it after 4 weeks. If the chip bud remains healthy with a plump bud your graft has been successful. Roses grafted in the fall or winter months can be left wrapped until spring. After the graft has taken, the top of the rootstock can be bent over or cut back to encourage the new chip bud to grow.
