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and any rotted portions. Spiders, termites, ticks and other insects, some of them very small, can
inhabit wood found in forested or farmed areas, and hosing will get rid of obvious problems.
You do not want to bring these insects into your home. If the piece is small enough, it can be
boiled for a twenty minutes in a large kettle. This is an especially good thing to do if the piece
has surfaces inaccessible to the jet of water from the hose. If the piece is too large to boil,
pouring boiling water from a kettle into small cracks and crevices may take care of any
problems. Some arrangers then scrub the wood clean. If the piece is true ocean driftwood, it
may have absorbed a lot of salt water. If the wood comes in contact with the water of your
arrangement, salt could leach into the water, affecting the flowers and other plants. The cure for
this is scrubbing and then soaking the piece in a tub or basin of very hot water, leaving it until
the water cools. If the water is not clear, repeat the process. (Cypress knees sold commercially
have been boiled by the collector, have turned a red-gold or gold color and will turn gray as they
age.) With any insects and rotting areas gone, your wood is now stabilized. Store the cleaned,
dry piece in a dry area, loosely wrapped in plastic.
Most probably, your piece of weathered wood is now a light to medium gray color. Many
arrangers, especially arrangers who wish to echo nature in their creations, prefer to use wood in
this natural state. In our dry climate, natural, untreated wood will last a long time. If more of a
refined, but still natural, look is required, the piece can be treated with a 50/50 mixture of boiled
linseed oil and turpentine. Brush the mixture onto thoroughly dry wood with a paintbrush,
repeating applications, if necessary, to get the look you require. Dry the piece before using it.
Never use raw linseed oil, as the surface of the wood will become tacky and never really dry.
This treatment preserves the wood, even in humid conditions, and can be repeated from time to
time as needed. However it will tend to darken the piece over time.
Spray shellac provides a very durable surface. You can get it in a matte, semi-gloss or glossy
finish. Shellac is, however, susceptible to water damage. This limits the usefulness of a shellactreated
piece in any but dried arrangements. For the same effect and the ability to use the piece
in contact with water, use a polyurethane spray. A matte poly spray will let the grain of the
wood show through better than a glossy one. Perhaps you wish to alter the color of your wood.
Swedish Wood Oil, Danish oil and Tung oil are easy to brush on to dry wood and come in
pigmented colors, which let the character of the original wood show through. If you use these
oils though, you will never be able to paint the piece, because paint will not stick to the oiled
wood. Or you may simply spray paint your untreated wood piece. Once you do any of the
above, the natural look of the piece is gone. Even if you use a wood stripper on it, it will never
look the same. Spray painted pieces can, of course, change color at the arranger’s whim. Matte
black or a neutral gray-green are the best colors to use as a foil for most flowering plants.
Finally, unless the aim of your arrangement is to feature the wood, take care that the size of the
wood piece does not overwhelm the rest of your materials, or that painted wood does not draw
attention to itself. Scale, color harmony, balance and proportion are important qualities in a
work of art, and when these qualities are achieved, the result is an arrangement of elegance and
distinction.
